Monday 4 May 2020

Fashion: the icons and fashion changes of the 1940s

World war II changed a lot for women, women needed to pick up the pace and start doing the jobs men left behind, women needed to be practical. opulent dresses and relaxing pastimes were pushed to one side in the relief of the war, no longer were fabrics pretty and delicate, they were now to be replaced with practical austere ones, rationing further induced this. purpose and utility was in demand, daily uniform was a daily way of life. the Government in a way became the designer of the decade, controlling the amount and types of fabrics that could be utilised and the amount of new clothes. trousers were no longer an alternative look, the were worn for practicality and because the silk used for stockings was no longer available, instead switching to nylon for a short term solution, but was soon reclaimed for parachutes, though when they did make a return it was in very high demand - function over fashion moved to the forefront.

shape was controlled and limited along with amount of fabric, a more simple practical style was born. frills, excess fabric, stitching and pleats were now gone, luxury was no longer a demand and no longer affordable. If it wasn't practical it had to go. women were more active, bikes were used for daily transport and so the need for a shorter skirt or work trousers/dungarees became more in demand.

with the need of some beauty and escape from the tragedies of war and the stories of the front line, Hollywood was an escape and distraction, therefore Hollywood stars were still allowed to dress in there silks and high fashions, with Icons such as Joan Crawford rising to the limelight. A symbol of style and class she favoured the growing in popularity shoulder pad look. getting onscreen and off screen designs from fashion designer and costumer Adrian. who loved the shoulder pads and triangle shaped silhouette, cutting the suits cleverly to optimise the limited amount of fabric use yet still giving style through the accents and detail to his designs.


designers who have been inspired by this include: Prada, D&G, Alber Elbaz




The end of the war meant a relax in fashion controlled restrictions, lux fabrics and brighter colours returned along with new aspiring designers rising to the surface, most renowned perhaps being Christian Dior. with his debut collection in 1947 he grabbed at the chance to use an unlimited supply of fabric, and used an excess of it. resetting the silhouette of the female form once again. changing the militaristic shapes of the decade to a much more feminine ideal, which backed the idea of the change and resuming of the previous tradition role of the woman at home, not at work.
skirts were full, worn over crinolines or petticoats once again, with bodice jackets and bustiers, the style was known as the "New look" feminine sensuality through shape luxury and adornment, designers who have used inspiration from this include of course - Dior.


Hollywood was of course still a huge source of influence, Rita Hayworth was one of the top, designers who styled from her look include, Oscar De La Renta, Jean Louis



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