Monday 30 November 2020

TRAVEL: PHILIPPINES Siquijor island



we headed early the next morning to the ferry, we got a lift with other travellers who were also going. we even met up with my couch surfing friend. we sat below deck, the journey was a few hours and they shown a film during it. it was pleasant enough. when we arrived on the island we got a tuktuk to the area we were staying. there are 2 ferry terminals. the one we arrived at had the possibility to rent scooters at it too. we stayed at a beach hostel 






our hostel was run by a lady boy, who had apparently married and Austrian. you could stay in a tent looking onto the beach or in a room. we picked tent, facing ours directly onto the beach. the rooms seems hot and humid. he downfall of the tents was sand coming in....
they were all super friendly. they were cutting down coconuts from the trees when we were arriving as they didn't want them to fall on any guests so were were each given a free coconut which we drank while chilling in the hammocks overlooking the beach. we chilled for a bit, charging our phones on the roof while we waited for my couch surfer friends, one, the guy who was also on our boat and chinny, a middle aged (late 40s/early 50s) Taiwanese lady. they both had rented scooters and me, nor robin could drive. we each went with them to the nearby TUBOD MARINE SANCTUARY for snorkelling. its a quiet area, you can rent snorkel gear and a lifejacket, we paid an entrance fee of 50peso having brought our own snorkelling gear pre-bought from taobao. 


sunnyside bed & bar


https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g3175044-d15039417-Reviews-Sunny_Side_Bed_Bar-San_Juan_Siquijor_Island_Visayas.html
















TURBOD MARINE SANCTUARY is a quiet beach and the fish and corals are very close to the shore. it was my first time snorkelling and it was unforgettable! I saw clownfish, beautiful corals and even a black and White Sea snake, though unfortunately no turtles. at one point I found a dropped go pro and luckily found the owner and was able to return it. the only downfall was that the corals are up very high and therefore its easy to cut yourself while swimming. I cut my knee, which was mild in comparison to our new friend who badly cut his toe to the point that he went to try and find a doctor and ended up cutting his trip on the island short as their weren't any local doctors available there on the Sunday.


















 after a thrilling underwater adventure we relaxed on the beach watching the sun start to set before returning to our hostel. we showered and chilled, later walking around the local area to find something for dinner, the seafood choices are numerous, fresh and cheap, my meat eating friend robin was in his element, I enjoyed some veggie friendly seaweed 








we had an amazing wake up, we literally just had to unzip our tent and we were on the beach. only downfall - sand comes in and it gets hot in there....

we got a tuktuk to old enchanted balete tree, complete with pond with fish, free fish foot spa! 








Balette trees are known to home mythical creatures like fairies, demons and elves. the island is known for its faith healing and witchcraft, the tree itself is over 400 years old with a natural spring underneath it. the fish will eat your dried skin, but be careful they can be a bit rough. its free entry but you're asked to make a donation for upkeep. I was climbing round the tree, slipped and cut my knee unfortunately. you can drink fresh coconuts, buy souvenirs and try some turmeric tea. we spent maybe half and hour or so relaxing. it wasn't very packed out but it was still relatively busy.




b
 



a little bit about the religious superstitions on Siquijor 

Witches of Philippines' Siquijor Province 

 Siquijor (15 miles from Demabguete on the island of Negros by ferry) is an island province famous for its witches and faith healers and nice deserted beaches. A number of shaman, mananambals (good and evil witches and warlocks) and sorcerers are said to live in Sant Antonio. The “bad side” sorcerers use voodoo potions, spider and poisonous snake agents and powerful plants to help people seeking revenge against others. The “good side” sorcerers are basically herbalists who use traditional medicine, oil massages, chants and prayers to help people feel better or overcome problems or diseases. 

 Sorcery mingled with elements of Catholicism thrives on Siquijor. Many rituals and potions involve the use of lighting teeth, tooth-shaped pieces of basalt that are said to appear at the base of trees struck by lightning. Wooden amulets often have sweet, earthy-smelling herbs mixed with lightning teeth. Gayuma love potions work if you apply it to the forehead of the person you are hoping to woo. Some concoction have more than a hundred herbs. The biggest events are cockfights. During Holy Week tang alap rituals are conducted. 

 Reporting from Siquijor, Benjamin Haas wrote in the Los Angeles Times, “At the end of a dirt road deep in the mountains, Consolacion Acay hobbled onto her porch and picked up her tools of the trade: a glass cup, a bamboo straw, a stone the size of an apricot pit and a bottle of potion. Then she began casting spells to heal her client. "I found this stone while I was swimming near waterfalls in the middle of the island," the unassuming 86-year-old said later. "That night I had a dream that taught me how to use the stone to heal people, and I've been doing it ever since." Acay dabbed the potion on certain points of her client's body, then half-filled the cup with water, dropped the stone in and began blowing air into the water with the straw. The water became murky — a sign, she said, that she was removing the malaise. She repeated the process until the water was clear. [Source: Benjamin Haas, Los Angeles Times, October 30, 2011 ==]

 “Acay's magic doesn't put her on the fringe of society here; sorcery, both for good and evil, is a fact of life in Siquijor. Throughout the Philippines, mention of this place instantly conjures images of healers, witches and demons. One gruesome tale features a vampire that splits in two, its upper torso flying from rooftop to rooftop, devouring fetuses out of pregnant women. Magic in Siquijor consists mainly of traditional beliefs that have existed in the Philippines for centuries. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century and introduced Catholicism, locals began to blend ancient practices with their newfound religion. ==

 “Many witches in Siquijor use Catholic imagery in their sorcery, and almost all regularly attend church. All their potions for the year are brewed in the week leading up to Easter. Father Larry Catubig, the senior Catholic priest on the island, said he realized the complicated nature of proselytizing to religiously devout witches. "It's good that the witches are going to church, and we try to steer them away from magic," he said. "But when they go back into the mountains, we have no control over what they do." ==

 During Holy Week, vigilance is required at the religious processions because the witches steal parts of the relics on display for use in their potions, Catubig said. It's not unusual for gravestones in Siquijor to have pieces missing — stone angels without heads or perhaps a stump where a cross once stood. Often it's the work of "black witches" looking to enhance their brew. ==

 “Although Acay works strictly in healing the sick, other witches here aren't so benevolent. Cayetano Umbalsa, 76, has been practicing witchcraft since his father began teaching him almost 60 years ago. Although he is well-versed in the healing spells, people come to him mainly for his proficiency in the dark arts. Jealous spouses and scorned lovers make up the bulk of such clients. The spells range from one to make your ex-lover constantly remember your face to those to cause sickness and even death. The black witches command steep fees: $345 to almost $700 in a region where the average annual income is about $2,500. The witches who limit their work to healing often ask for a small donation of a few dollars. ==

 “Richard Quezon, the mayor of Siquijor town, the capital of the province, remembers being terrified by stories of evil witches in the mountains that rise from the middle of the island. "Before, everyone went to healers for things like liver problems or cancer," he said. "But now, with modern medicine, only those who can't afford to go to the hospital seek out healers." To some, that's a positive development. Evelyn C. Retana, a retired surgeon at the Siquijor town hospital, has seen sick people spend months hoping to be healed by witches only to eventually seek treatment at the hospital. But Quezon defends witchcraft. Last month he went to a witch because of a skin condition that wouldn't go away. "The medicine from the pharmacy didn't work, but the herbs and spells from the healer worked right away," he said. "Some things science can't explain."” ==



after this we decided to try caving at CANTABON CAVE. 



definitely worth it! we were the only two doing it, if you don't have suitable shoes you can rent (I should have, my slipper sandals were too loose and I later slipped and badly cut my foot cutting the exploration short) included in the price you are given a safety hat with torch and each person is assigned a guide. so we were a group of four in total. they lead us down a steep flights of stairs down to the cave, partially crawling in. in parts you need to duck and climb up or down, in and out of water at times, which can go quite high as its deep in parts. be careful with your phone and/or camera. our guide help carry ours at times even though I had it in a waterproof bag. they also helped take pictures for us all the while pointing out the different types of rocks and stalagmites(forms up) / stalactites  (hangs down from ceiling) and the different formations and their names. 






stalactite vs stalagmite 

stalactite is an icicle-shaped formation that hangs from the ceiling of a cave and is produced by precipitation of minerals from water dripping through the cave ceiling. ... A stalagmite is an upward-growing mound of mineral deposits that have precipitated from water dripping onto the floor of a cave.







https://siquijor-island.com/cantabon-cave/





after this we headed back to the beach hostel to chill on the beach and watch a fantastic sunset with some of the others. 
 















the next day was our last day, we had a boat later to get us to Moalboal, though it was a bit awkward journey wise as the boat only took you as far as Liloan port on Cebu island (the bottom tip of the island).


we had an easy morning chilling and chatting with the owner and workers. they were all super friendly and nice and ready to give travel recommendations. we then decided to check out a waterfall and got a tuktuk to take us to the closest one - a bit of a bumpy road though. we decided to go to LUGNASON FALLS, however on arrival we discovered there is no water in dry season! instead we stayed at the concrete baths which had water in them, there were a few others there, one couple had brought there dogs. we chilled for a while before heading back to the beach then later getting a tuktuk to the ferry. 









not many were on the boat. it was a workers boat, we got to view and amazing sunset and lie sprawled out on the chairs. by the time we got there it was late at night with no buses running to Moalboal any longer like we thought. however there were other foreigners in the same situation, so we organised an expensive ride that dropped us all off at our individual hostels, but at least we got there. we checked in and slept, ready to meet chinny in the morning for birthday beach time (it was Robins birthday and also his last day as he needed to head back to manilla for his flight the next day