The year 1603 was a watershed moment in British history. Elizabeth I (1558-1603) died without a direct heir and so her throne passed to James VI of Scotland (1567-1625), who in turn became James I of England (1603-25). This was the start of the Stuart dynasty in Britain. early Stuart monarchs used fashion as a means of entertainment in courtly masques, how clothing played important roles at key moments in the lives of Charles I (1625-49) and Charles II (1660-85), and how the Stuarts and their courtiers put their look together.
1603
Key date: 24 March – Elizabeth I dies at Richmond Palace. James VI of Scotland becomes James I of England
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1702
Key date: 8 March - William III dies at Kensington Palace. His sister-in-law, Anne inherits the throne
1707
Key date: Act of Union unites the parliaments of England and Scotland
1714
Key date: 1 August – Queen Anne dies at Kensington Palace. This is the end of the Stuart dynasty
Key fashion date: Fashions follow Tudor precedent: women in farthingales and ruffs, men in doublet and hose
Key date: James stays in the Tower of London when he arrives in England – he is the last monarch to stay there
Key date: Hampton Court Conference debates differences in religion
Key fashion date: The Vision of the Twelve Goddesses masque is performed. The court plunders Elizabeth I’s wardrobe for costumes
Key date: 5 November – the Gunpowder Plot, an attempt to blow up James VI & I, is foiled
Key fashion date: The Masque of Blacknesse is performed
Key date: The King James Bible is published
Key date: Prince Henry, the Prince of Wales, dies which makes his younger brother, Charles next in line to the throne
Key date: The original Banqueting House burns to the ground
Key date: Anthony van Dyck makes his first trip to London
Key date: The new Banqueting House, designed by Inigo Jones, is completed
Key date: 27 March – James VI & I dies at Theobalds Park, Hertfordshire. His son, Charles I, succeeds to the throne
Key date: May - Charles marries Princess Henrietta Maria of France
Key fashion date: Waistlines for men’s and women’s fashions have risen, helping to show off the plain silks that were popular
Key fashion date: The Tudor ruff has evolved into the ‘falling band’ or collar of lace, often seen in van Dyck’s portraits of Charles I
Key date: 29 May - the future Charles II is born at St James’s Palace
Key date: Anthony van Dyck returns to London and quickly becomes the favoured portrait painter of the royal family
Key fashion date: Tempe Restored masque is performed at Whitehall
Key date: Rubens’ paintings at Banqueting House are completed
Key fashion date: Van Dyck’s skill at painting lustrous silks can be seen in the portrait of Princess Mary Stuart
Key fashion date: Menswear is becoming increasingly relaxed and streamlined compared with the earlier period, but the doublet, breeches and hose are still the key garments. In contrast the bodices of women’s dresses become more constricted with boning inside
Key date: Charles raises the royal standard at Nottingham – the start of the Civil Wars in England
Key date: Battle of Naseby – Charles I loses
Key fashion date: Leather jerkin associated with Charles I – an example of practical wear
Key date: Charles is kept prisoner at Hampton Court Palace for 6 months. He escapes to the Isle of Wight
Key date: 30 January – Charles I is beheaded outside Banqueting House, Whitehall
Key fashion date: Charles wears two shirts at his execution so that he doesn’t shiver and people don’t think he was afraid
Key date: Charles II is crowned in Scotland but flees to the continent shortly after
Key fashion date: Fashions during the Commonwealth are traditionally thought to be more sombre and sedate
Key date: Oliver Cromwell starts his rule as Lord Protector
Key date: Oliver Cromwell dies
Key fashion date: Petticoat breeches – a full style of breeches which came down to the knee and resembled a short women’s petticoat– are popular with fashionable men
Key date: Charles II is restored to the throne
Key fashion date: Fashions see a rise in decoration and extravagant styles with lots of ribbons and billowing materials, and constricting bodices for women’s dress
Key fashion date: Charles II is thought to have introduced the levée to the British court upon his restoration
Key date: Charles II marries Catherine of Braganza of Portugal and they establish their court at Hampton Court Palace
Key date: The Great Fire of London
Key fashion date: The Great Wardrobe, the store for the royal clothes, is destroyed in the Great Fire of London
Key fashion date: October – Charles II announces a new fashion of a vest (a long, narrow coat) to replace the doublet, an outercoat and breeches. This is the start of the three-piece suit.
Key fashion date: Women had often worn loose gowns when relaxing at home. The early mantua, a loose garment with centre opening, could be pinned and draped, starts to make appearances as a day dress
Key date: Princess Anne marries Prince George of Denmark
Key date: 6 February – Charles II dies at Whitehall palace. He is succeeded by his brother, James VII & II
Key fashion date: Contemporary illustrations of James II’s coronation show a mix of fashionable dress (mantuas and vests), with traditional robes of state
Key date: James VII & II is deposed in favour of his Protestant daughter and son-in-law and he sets up an exile court on the continent
Key date:William III and Mary II arrive to take the throne and set about making improvements to Hampton Court Palace
Key fashion date: Orb made for Mary II at her coronation
Key fashion date: The mantua becomes increasingly formalised
Key fashion date: An example of the bright colours used in royal fashions can be seen in the rare surviving stockings and shirt of William III
Key date: 28 December - Mary II dies of smallpox at Kensington Palace
Key date: Banqueting House is the sole survivor of a fire at the palace of Whitehall
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