In many ways, George III (1760‒1820) followed in the footsteps of his predecessors and wore clothes that advertised his status as monarch and set him apart from his subjects. At celebrations such as the King’s or Queen’s birthday the royal family were expected to dress in a manner that reflected their regal position, wearing exclusive silks and the formal court mantua or suit. George III also made efforts to protect domestic manufactures, and in 1765, he introduced an Act of Parliament that prevented the import of French silks, while Queen Charlotte encouraged members of her court to wear English silks instead.
Unlike his predecessors, though, George III was also known for his frugality. Informally, he favoured a far simpler life than a monarch would normally pursue. The King enjoyed ‘dressing down’ in practical clothes, and there were many stories of him passing unrecognised by his subjects because he was not dressed as they expected.
In 1777, the King introduced what became known as the ‘Windsor uniform’, which he originally intended to wear while at Windsor Castle. The blue suit was very similar to military uniforms and hunting outfits of the day, and it is possible he was inspired by a similar hunting outfit worn by his father, Frederick, Prince of Wales (1707‒1751). Dark blue was also an increasingly popular colour of choice for men’s coats in the second half of the century. There were two versions of the suit, a plain and a dress uniform, both dark blue with red facings (collars and cuffs) and the only difference being the dress uniform had gold embellishment and gilt, monogrammed buttons.
The Windsor uniform soon became a staple of the royal wardrobe worn by the King, his family and close members of the court who wore it to demonstrate loyalty and to show that they had the King’s favour. There are a number of portraits of George and of his sons wearing the outfit, and by 1787 the King was wearing it in public and in private. The uniform became so closely associated with him that it was worn by many to celebrate the King’s recovery in 1789 from his first bout of illness.
The uniform was used by satirists as a way to make the King instantly recognisable in their images and to comment on his frugal habits (below). It was also used as a way to show differences between political factions of the day; the King and his prime minister, William Pitt the Younger, were often depicted in the colours of the Windsor uniform, while the political faction known as the Whigs adopted clothes of ‘buff and blue’ colours, which were associated with the American fight for independence.
The Windsor uniform may not have been a flashy or expensive fashion, but it was still smart, had royal associations and marked the King and his household out from the rest of the country. A version of the Windsor uniform has been worn by subsequent monarchs and their families ever since.
George III suffered periods of ‘madness’ during his long reign, some so serious that his son, who later became George IV (1820-30), ruled in his place as the Prince Regent. While scholars have debated the cause of George III’s ‘madness’ over the years, we can learn from his clothing how his health affected his daily life.
Through the study of this waistcoat, We can see the adaptations made for the King for his comfort during his ill health, including sleeves to protect him from the cold and pleats for easy movement. The decorated silk shows that even though the King was ill, his garments were still of the best workmanship and materials. the waistcoat survived the centuries, when so many other clothes did not, as royal clothes were given to faithful retainers and servants as rewards for loyal service.
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