Showing posts with label Emperor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Emperor. Show all posts

Saturday, 18 April 2020

FASHION HISTORY- THE VICTORIANS

Most people, when they think of Queen Victoria, picture her in her widow's weeds, which she adopted after the death of her husband, Prince Albert. But the 19th century was an era of tremendous technological, industrial, and social change and this had a huge impact on what people were wearing. There was the invention of aniline dyes, which produced bright colours. There was the crinoline craze in the mid-century, which saw the circumference of women's skirts reach epic proportions and that was only possible because of developments in steel technology. for menswear, there were innovations in tailoring, which meant fashion was all about cut and construction, rather than about decorative embellishment like we saw last week. All of this means that there is much more to Victorian fashion than that picture we have of Queen Victoria in her black mourning dress.
No alt text provided for this image
No alt text provided for this image


1819 Key date: 24 May – Victoria is born at Kensington Palace

Key fashion date: Trousers which reached the instep were popular with men, replacing the breeches of the 18th century, apart from court dress

1830


No alt text provided for this image
Key date: 26 June – George IV dies and is succeeded by William IV

1837

No alt text provided for this image


Key date: 20 June – King William IV dies, Victoria inherits the throne
No alt text provided for this image

1838


Key date: Charles Dickens publishes Oliver Twist
Key fashion date: Women’s fashions become more exaggerated with inflated sleeves and bigger skirts
Key date: 1 August – slavery abolished in the British empire

1840


Key date: 10 February – Queen Victoria marries Prince Albert
No alt text provided for this image

Key fashion date: Queen Victoria wears a wedding dress of Spitalfields silk and Honiton lace
Key date: 21 November – Victoria, the Princess Royal is born

1841


Key date: 9 November – Prince Albert (later Edward VII) is born

1842


Key fashion date: Victoria and Albert host a fancy dress ball where guests dress in historically inspired costumes

1843


Key date: 25 April – Princess Alice is born

1844


Key date: 6 August – Prince Alfred is born

1845


Key fashion date: Elias Howe patents a sewing machine in the United States

1846


Key date: 5 May – Princess Helena is born

1848


Key date: 18 March – Princess Louise is born

1850


Key fashion date: Fly fronts are in common use in men’s trousers
Key date: 1 May – Prince Arthur is born
No alt text provided for this image

1851


Key date: 1 May – the Great Exhibition opens at Crystal Palace in Hyde Park
No alt text provided for this image
No alt text provided for this image

1853


Key date: Start of the Crimean War
Key date: 7 April – Prince Leopold is born

1856


Key fashion date: William Henry Perkins discovers ‘mauve’, the first aniline dye
Key fashion date: Steel is used to make the ‘cage crinoline’
No alt text provided for this image

1857


Key date: 14 April – Princess Beatrice is born

1859


Key date: Charles Darwins’ On the Origins of Species is published

1861


Key date: 14 December – Prince Albert dies, ages 42
Key fashion date: Queen Victoria adopts mourning clothes that she will continue to wear for the rest of her life
No alt text provided for this image

Key date: Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management is published

1863


Key date: 10 March - Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII) marries Princess Alexandra of Denmark
No alt text provided for this image

1870s-80s


Key fashion date: Various styles of bustle dominate and shape women’s fashions
No alt text provided for this image

1876


Key date: Queen Victoria is declared empress of India

1880


Key date: Education becomes compulsory for children under 10 years old
No alt text provided for this image

1892


Key date: 14 January – Prince Albert Victor (second in line to the throne) dies, aged 28
Key fashion date: First synthetic silk is created

1893


Key date: 6 July – Prince George, Duke of York (later George V) marries Princess Mary (May) of Teck
No alt text provided for this image

1897


Key date: Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee

1901


Key date: 22 January – Queen Victoria dies at Osborne House.

FASHION HISTORY: WIGS - the Georgians

fashion in the 1700s required attention from head to toe, and a central part of the 18th-century man’s wardrobe was the wig.
Wigs were worn to supplement existing hair; they could be used to add body or style, and men started to wear wigs for fashionable purposes during the reign of Charles II (1660‒85), where the full-bottomed wig (a long, curly wig that came down over the shoulders, also known as a periwig) was an essential accessory that remained popular into the early 18th century. By mid-century wigs were worn by all but the poorest men and they were particularly popular with elite, military and professional men such as physicians, lawyers and judges. The term ‘bigwig’ dates from this time and refers to these men in positions of authority who favoured the big, full-bottomed wigs. English High Court judges still wear a descendent of this style today.
No alt text provided for this image
Just like clothing, styles of wigs changed according to the fashion and occasion. The curly full-bottomed wig was worn at court in the early 1700s but its size made it cumbersome and impractical, so it was gradually replaced by a smaller, neater wig that came in a variety of forms. The Ramillies wig, for instance, tied the hair in a plait at the back making it more practical and thus popular with military men. Bag wigs were in use from the 1720s onwards – as the name suggests the hair was tied at the back in a small black bag ‒ and there were curled rolls above the ears (below). Another style, worn from the 1730s onwards, was the bob wig – this was the simplest style of all, with hair falling just below the ears and having either curls or a simple frizz all over. These were popular with professional men such as doctors and were considered more informal than the periwig.
No alt text provided for this image
Wigs were expensive to buy and required a lot of upkeep. The most sought after were made from human hair but if you couldn’t afford that then horse hair would do. Initially they came in different colours (Charles II favoured black wigs), but by the 18th century wigs were being powdered with wheat flour or starch, which could cause problems for those walking past:
You sometimes meet a Fop of nicest Tread
Whose mantling Peruke veils his empty Head…
Him, like the Miller, pass with Caution by,
Lest from his Shoulders Clouds of powder fly.

John Gay, Trivia: Or the Art of Walking the Streets of London, 1716.
Powdering was a messy business that was used for both wigs and natural hair. You needed a loose gown to protect your clothes, and some men and women even had specific rooms where the powdering would take place. Powdering became controversial in 1795 when William Pitt imposed a tax on hair powder to raise revenue. Some people were exempt – including the royal family – but many people who wanted to continue to powder their wigs or hair had to pay a guinea, a price that only the wealthiest could afford. By this point in the century, wigs were falling out of fashion and it became more common for men to reveal their own hair.
Women were less likely to wear full wigs but that didn’t stop them from using wires, rolls and pads to create more and more elaborate hairstyles. Hair pieces – the 18th-century equivalent of modern hair extensions – were also popular, helping to enhance the natural hair of the wearer. Elite women could spend hours being styled by their hairdressers (coiffeurs), particularly for court events when they needed to look their absolute best. The results were sometimes so elaborate and took so much effort that the styles would be left in for days at a time. Decorations were used to make even more of a statement; flowers, jewels, pieces of fruit and even model ships were perched in the staggering waves of hair. Feathers from exotic birds were popular as they added even more height to the hair. Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (1757‒1806), apparently once wore a 4ft ostrich feather to court, a sight so ridiculous that Queen Charlotte banned such items from her Drawing Room.
No alt text provided for this image
These elaborate hairstyles were a gift to satirists who mocked these women for the lengths they went to in order to achieve the height of hair fashion. Caricatures and satirical prints were popular in the 18th century. People would buy them for entertainment or to decorate their homes. Like cartoons in newspapers today, these prints often contained multiple layers of meaning, which addressed wider social and cultural concerns, or political and even sexual scandals. Also just like today, extreme fashions and those who followed these fashions obsessively provided a lot of material for the satirists. The images are often exaggerations of the styles in question, but they can tell us a lot about what people thought about fashionable dress and the people that wore it.

Tuesday, 7 April 2020

FASHION: Stella McCartney and sustainability

Stella McCartney is a British fashion designer, and a luxury lifestyle brand. Her company is a pioneering example that communicates her commitment to sustainability. Stella does not use any leather or fur in her designs, and places responsibility at the heart of the brand’s values, from the sourcing of raw materials to the manufacturing of products. The videos we are sharing with you, provide insight into Stella’s approach to sustainable design innovation for luxury fashion, and her personal thoughts on the importance of ethical values and consciousness of environmental impact. Her perspective shows us about how to be a forward thinking and to be responsive to change.

designers in luxury fashion can create alternative fabric options that are less harmful to the environment than conventional materials, and can tackle the issue of deforestation. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre made from the cellulose in trees, and often comes from endangered forests around the world that are under threat from deforestation. Forests make up 31% of the land on earth and produce vital oxygen and habitat for plants and animals. Forests also help mitigate climate change because they soak up carbon dioxide that adds to continuous changes in climate patterns. Stella collaborated with NGO partner Canopy Planet to promote a case for forest conservation, and now only uses viscose from sustainably certified forests in Sweden.
Stella's strong set of personal values formed the foundation and core principles for her company. Her values manifest within her business culture, and she is known for her commitment to being a luxury sustainable fashion brand. This in turn has given her a powerful and influential platform to advocate sustainability, and serves as a manifesto to publicly declare goals to change the way the fashion industry works. Sustainability in fashion is not broadly understood, and so good communication and campaigns help set new trends, delivering important agency and knowledge to other designers and consumers.







Saturday, 4 April 2020

TRAVEL: SHENYANG

ZHONGSHAN PARK AND STATUE OF MAO TZE DONG


THE RAILWAY STATION AND WESTERN STYLED BUILDINGS


South Mosque




RAILWAY STATION AT NIGHT












Beiling Park



Zhaoling, also known as Beiling is the tomb of the second Qing emperor, Hong Taiji, and his empress Xiaoduanwen. The tomb is located within Beiling Park, in Huanggu District of the northern urban Shenyang, Liaoning province, and is a popular area attraction. The tomb complex took eight years to build and has a row of animal statues leading to it. The tomb and surrounding park cover an area of 3,300,000 square metres making it the largest of the three imperial tombs north of the great wall. The area around the tomb was originally set aside for imperial use and ordinary people were forbidden entry. This forbidden area was opened to the public in 1928 and now forms Shenyang's Beiling Park. Wikipedia






















































The Mukden Palace, or Shenyang Imperial Palace, was the former imperial palace of the early Manchu-led Qing dynasty. It was built in 1625, and the first three Qing emperors lived there from 1625 to 1644. Since the collapse of imperial rule in China, the palace has been converted to a museum that now lies in the center of Shenyang city, Liaoning Province