The optimization phase, as well as the destabilization phase are both part of the old regime. This means that both are working within the current system. The difference between the two is that in the optimization phase “actors are mainly focused on improving the status quo through efficiency measures and efforts to minimize flaws in the regime.” , while activities in the destabilization phase “make the unsustainable nature of the dominant structures and practices explicit and [therefore] increase the urgency for change.” So activities in the optimization phase typically do not lead to meaningful change, while activities in the disruption phase can eventually lead to disruption of the status quo if they build on each other.
Both the experimentation and acceleration phase are part of the new regime. This is where activities that are truly different from the current fashion practices belong. As the Drift report explains, audits have not led to any significant systems change in the fashion industry. They are merely a form of optimizing current business practices, instead of developing a radical new fashion system. They are therefore best placed in the optimization phase of the ‘old regime’ curve, under optimization.
leasing business models such as clothing libraries - the experimentation phase. Clothing libraries are clearly experimenting with alternatives to the current fashion business model. They have radically different visions, structures and practices than standard retail shops. Therefore, it can be said that they aim to create a new retail system towards circularity, and so they should be placed in the ‘new regime’ curve. leasing business models such as clothing libraries to be still in the experimentation phase as opposed to the acceleration phase as they haven’t found their way into the mainstream yet.
online retail - destabilization phase. First of all, instead of creating systems change towards sustainability or circularity and leading towards a ‘new regime’, online retail is still focused on business as usual, selling goods to customers and making profit. It should therefore be placed in the ‘old regime’ curve. However, in the last few years, online retail has significantly disrupted traditional fashion commerce through direct to consumer business. Manufacturers can sell directly to customers without shop space or wholesalers, which has destabilized the regular retail business. It therefore goes further than the optimization of regular fashion practices, which is why in the Drift report it is placed in the destabilization phase
governing sustainable fashion
Organizing a transition requires cooperation from all parties involved, but how do you structure a change like that? Take into account that the textile industry is part of a global economy with power imbalances between the global north (consumers) and the global south (producers). How will resources and labour be divided in a fair way in the transition towards circularity?
there's a mainly Western viewpoint on change, but what can we learn from the viewpoint of the non-Western countries where most of the world’s textile production takes place? How do they organize change? The video below tells you what steps have been taken by the textile industry in Bangladesh to improve workplace safety and reduce environmental impact. Meet Rubana Huq, head of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), a national trade organization of garment manufacturers in Bangladesh.
Bangladesh is the 2nd largest apparel exporting country in the world and our economy is heavily dependent on this industry. 84% of our overall export earnings are generated from this particular sector. It employs around 4.4 million workers, mainly women from rural areas. In recent times we see that globally, the demand for sustainable fashion is increasing,Consumers are asking for products made in a sustainable manner.
In Bangladesh, we are faced with some environmental challenges as well. Such as, as groundwater depletion, energy efficiency, waste management, etc.
In this era of disruptive technology, we have to be in equal footing with the global trend to be competitive. we have to be very cautious and we have to be very careful and we have to prepare our industry for the next move. Governing this transition is absolutely a huge task! Policies have to be revised, new standards need to be introduced and promulgated. Being the highest trade body of the industry, we are leading this change along with the government, brands, academia, workers and trade unions, and of course development partners as well.
Currently the second phase of the project is under implementation.Through this program, industry reduced environmental impacts in terms of water consumption, energy efficiency, and renewable energy. Another thing that's be achieved is policy improvement , as well as the regulatory framework for sustainable growth. This has been through the public-private forum named TSP, or Textile Sustainability Platform. TSP works collectively towards lowering sectoral barriers, and improving the policy and regulatory framework to ease sustainable growth. TSP is composed of members from textile factories, brands, industry associations, civil society organizations, NGOs, UN, university, academicians, banks, and concerned government bodies.
Through this platform we're able to create a 200 million US dollar worth Green Transformation Fund (GTF), fiscal incentives for green factories, energy audit regulations, and sludge management guidelines being enforced by the Department of Environment.
there's also been a signing of the UN fashion industry charter for Climate Action with UNFCCC; it includes a target of 30% GHG emission reductions by 2030.
they're now in the final stage of inaugurating RMG Sustainability Council, Ready-Made Garments Sustainability Council. This council will be a self-monitoring entity looking into all aspects of sustainability, such as workplace safety, labor, and of course environment. The chapter on environment will work in a three-tier system namely: Pollution control: to develop capacity of factories challenged to comply with applicable laws and regulations.
Two. Climate action: to develop factories to reduce environmental footprints and carbon emissions of their production.
Three. Climate positive: to support and guide factories to achieve low and no carbon pathway. The good thing is that the industry has already made some praiseworthy good stories.
Bangladesh has the most number of LEED green factory buildings certified by the United States Green Building Council. 101 green factory buildings and 500+ more are in the pipeline. the factories are now having rainwater harvesting, solar power, cogeneration, waste to heat generation, etc. So, the transition has already started.
there are some challenges like global price fall, climate change, lack of local technology, skills etc. But,with a friendly policy framework, an enforcement system along with market led incetivisation will be able to take our industry to the level that it desires.
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