Shanghai
1-2nd September
My flight over from Dublin to Abu Dhabi was delayed by and
hour so I was only in that airport for 2 hours. Bit of a hectic journey as I
left Belfast at 4.30am! The flight over was okay as I slept having taken some Diazepam,
watched the other woman which was hilarious!
Once I ‘d got through the visa queue at immigration I aimed
for the taxi, told that the bus that was possible to get to the school didn’t
exist, and although quoted 200RMB by one women another tried to persuade me to
get one at 550 before I haggled it to 350. I did neither and opted for going
downstairs and getting a metred taxi at 180RMB. I soon as I arrived I had to
leave my luggage in the building, and exceedingly tired get my student card
(What a picture!) and register. Had to pay 500rmb for a room deposit! 50 for a
month internet and another for a canteen card. My room is small and hostel
like, on the 12th floor, and I’m also meant to get a roommate at
some point. My hot water usage is tracked and if I use it all up in one
semester I need to pay for more! My air
con needed sorted and the fridge reeked, the loo has a whiff of sewer about it.
It’s also very hot, sunny and humid! Least I am able to get Wi-Fi downstairs in
the lobby and “coffee room” (there’s no coffee but it’s a nice sort of lounge
area with booths) my Vpn on the laptop won’t work and I can’t even skype as
that got made illegal last summer! China now has its own silly version? Got a
metro to Xujiahui as I have left my laptop charger in my boyfriend’s house in
Belfast, well done there Kelly! It’s an expensive area but filled with some
amazing architecture for the malls. In particular the one I went to “Metro city”
haggled my charger down to 210 from 280 RMB. I wandered around a bit passing a
catholic French façade school established in 1850, Xuhai school. And also
walked around Xujiahui Park marvelling at some black swans. Not the happiest
about everything, but at least better off than my friend Rosie who just arrived
at her university in Wuhan and has been told nothing!
I got my internet password sorted the next day at the dodgy
run down student resources building. Here I met a few girls, 2 Danish and 1
Hungarian who all study in Denmark, we went to Lianhua road to find farmers
market and were unsuccessful however it was good to socialise and afterwards
had my dinner with the Danish girls in the canteen. Not the most appetizing
though, rice and veg and I unfortunately had to scrap off bits of meat. Spent my night skyping, researching VPNS and
looking for a fashion internship in shanghai.
Wednesday 3rd September
Didn’t sleep till 4, it was way too warm. Got up and
showered after 10.30 and emailed some more shanghai designers before exploring
the campus. My classroom looks modern and okay, I passed the shanghai fashion
and costume museum and explored around the sports areas, the gym looks
impressive from afar, but looking in it seems more like a gymnasium, I later
found out that many students pay for memberships for a gym elsewhere.
I asked for my fridge to be looked at, used the Wi-Fi
finding it wasn’t working I went back to student services and they gave me a
different password, yet my other one works for my internet, confusing! Got a vpn
sorted, paying $8 a month with safervpn. Had a plain lunch of rice and pak choi
from the canteen.
I then explored the surrounding area trying to find shanghai
mart as it was recommended for fabrics. It’s fantastic! Full of read to wear
clothes, designer products for buyer, materials and accessories to order or
buy, I took some photos and got some cards, very informative!
I went back to the hotel to double check about the fridge
and to use the internet before getting the metro to Naxiang station to look at
Nanxiang ancient town.
It is not easily signposted at all, and there seemed to
be only Asians, so, my advice, turn right upon leaving the station, go
straight, the road with begin to curve and you will cross a highway. Continue
straight to Dehua road, Past a couple hotels, you will come to what seems like
a barrier gate, with a small opening, continue on, for maybe 10-15mins and
eventually you will find it, there’s a sign eventually saying that its nearby,
once you pass a school.
It’s a small area, of old buildings with traditional
Chinese style roofs, there was a temple and some gardens but both were closed when
I arrived there, closing after 4.30 pm. It was nice to look at, and there were
lots of different vendors and shops,
I went into a nearby shopping area where
some small Chinese children took a shine to me, being the only white girl
around, they followed me and started speaking Chinese, I didn’t understand, but
said a few phrases to them, like hello and my name, they instantly took this
for fluent Chinese and got very excited. I left but later on around the area I
found another girl who seemed to have followed me, it was quite cute. DO NOT
use the toilets though, it’s the worst kind of squatting toilets, the ones that
have no doors and are just hole, sanitary towels were amongst it too, not
appealing!
I had a quick look at the mall beside the station but it
wasn’t very interesting before getting the metro back to the university. I went
online for a while before meeting up with the Danish girl. We went to a fun bar/restaurant called “Perry’s” there
are 4 in Shanghai apparently, it was ladies night and it was packed. The place
is like a doodle pad with writing everywhere, along with flags. There were
several people up dancing around the bar area and the music was good. You can
drink, have food and smoke shisha. It seems like a very popular international student place.
Thursday 4th September
Today I had my medical, good thing I didn’t get one at home
or I would have had to pay twice! Filled out a sheet, asking everything to: was
I pregnant, had I previously had the plague to have i got aids….got bloods taken, paid 470
RMB got an x-ray, and ECG and then bullied by an angry Chinese lady who made me
hold a spoon to my eye and read very VERY small Chinese lettering and to tell
her whether it was up or down…I passed but it was hard! Chilled in my room
before heading for Shanghai Museum.
No-one seemed to give the right directions, I got out at the
wrong exit to begin with, however, and found myself confused at the beautiful People's square, one lady assumed I was looking for the
shopping plaza and lead me to Han city, the place I have been before that does
all the excellent and cheap fakes! Good to know!
Eventually I got on the right path (the opposite way I was
headed) and passed the huge Shanghai theatre, where I previously went and saw
the amazing Shanghai acrobatic show. The museum itself is on beautiful grounds
and holds various artifacts, the first floors holds ceramics dated from the
earliest BC, some ceramics over 2,000 years still had visible paintwork. Pieces
under 1000 looked so good and so skilled that they’d be purchased now. Of
course the porcelain was fantastic, delicate, beautiful, colourful and artistic.
On the other side of the ground floor the Buddhist/Chinese culture was shown
through statues, was interesting to see having spent so long in Buddhist
Thailand.
Upstairs held beautiful calligraphy pieces, from writing to
paintings, a delicate skill. Seals were explained, originating in China, and
there was also a currency exhibit along with jade. My favourite of course was Chinese
costume, showing the different styles of the ethnic groups. Some were heavily embroidered, others thick
and long for warmth, colourful, simply designed or heavily bejewelled. There
were also some interesting and sometimes scary opera masks too!
After the museum I decided to walk the famous Nanjing Rd
starting at the west end. Full of high design shops, it was very fancy, I felt
so poor just looking at them, from cars, and watches to designer handbags and
clothes stores, names such as Ferrari, Gucci, Prada and Cartier highlighted the
street in huge signage. I passed the beautiful Jin’ang temple and took a stroll
round its park, finding a private resting spot among some rocks before deciding that my feet were too sore to go on (I walked over 3 stations!) I spent my
night relaxing and begging forgiveness from my feet.
Friday 5th September
Today was the induction day. Thankfully starting at half 10
(mornings are most definitely the hardest, tiredness, the realisation that I’m
so far from those I love and that I cannot talk to them for ages,(7 hours
behind me) the loneliness.) It was on until 12. We were given an introduction
into the school international services, the rooms etc., and the clubs we can
join. Missing class is taken very serious, miss over 1/3 and you can be
disqualified from your exams that year or expelled! Thinking of perhaps joining
street or Latin dance, and maybe the shanghai experience club as they take you
on adventures. It seems that perhaps classes will only be in the morning.
Had lunch with the Danish students. Rice and spicy tofu
(chilli pieces had to be scrapped off as its just not pleasurable!) before
getting my first months allowance (200rmb more than I expected) getting my
insurance card and heading for Sijing.
My map app unfortunately wouldn’t find the ancient town for
me, and the map I had wasn’t very good (Google maps) fortunately I had a
brochure with the name in Chinese. At least that’s what I thought. I ended up
directed, and in, some sort of army show, full of men (of course) and families
looking at huge Chinese tanks and even a plane! So random!
So I decided after this to use the picture and Chinese
symbols for Anfang Pagoda. After asking several people and checking I was going
the right way for 20 minutes I arrived beside it and a bridge, only to find
that although it was way before 4.30 (the closing time) that it was closed! So annoyed!
Got a few pretty pictures and went for a stroll in the nearby park which was
full of small ponds covered in huge lily pads. There’s so much going on in
Shanghai that it’s nice to find the older parts or the parks to get away from
the hustle and bustle.
I looked in a few shops on my way back, which were pretty
good, particularly the shopping mall across from the station, selling very
cheap clothes, in particular cheap tops for 25rmb. I may actually be back for
them!
I then made my way to Shanghai HongQuio station to pick up
my ticket for tomorrow to Wuhan. (Reasonably easy, I lined up in the queue and
showed my passport and the ticket number I was given beginning with E) I can
get my return tomorrow from either Wuhan or shanghai and I won’t have to pay
the 50rmb handling fee. Although I could get the metro tomorrow I think I will
get the taxi as it’s all quite confusing and I don’t want to get lost and miss
my train! On my way home I spotted someone with Durian (my favourite fruit from
Thailand!) I peeked in to the nearby fruit shop and they have some, not the
cheapest but I will just have to treat myself. YUM!
Back at the dorm I was shocked to discover that I now have a
roommate. A Korean girl called Taiyung. She seems nice, she is staying for 2
years and seems to have brought everything with her, from mirrors to a clothes
horse, and she bought a Wi-Fi router and gave me the password on my phone! Well
prepared. She seems friendly and I’m hoping we will get on ok. She was going
out with some other Koreans for a drink which suited me as I needed sleep, and
when I was getting up to leave the next morning, she still was not in by the
time I left (5am) perhaps she stayed at a friends as she knew I was leaving
early or maybe she is a mad party animal. We shall see!
Got my taxi very quickly to the station (50rmb) and went
through security. I bought my return ticket having written down exactly what I
wanted from the site (you can only purchase 3 days in advance) found my gate easily, got a drink from the
vending machine before boarding at 6.15 finding the car and seat as written in
the top right corner of my ticket.
Tired I slept in odd positions, the child or person behind
me kept kicking the chair (is it horrid that I imagined slow deaths for their
cruelty? haha!) and I discovered the joys of using a squatting toilet on a high
speed train
Saturday 6-8th September WUHAN
Arrived about 12.30 pm in Wuhan station Rosie met me, hadn’t
seen her since November, if it wasn’t for me suggesting and egging her on about
the scholarship she wouldn’t have applied. We got a bus towards her university
stopping at Wuhan east lake park – Moshill and paid a student’s entrance of
30RMB.
It was a huge park! Lots of places to go, things to do and
see, we climbed up to a building dedicated to a Chinese general marshal with a
large statue outside it admiring the views below (and sweating profusely may I
add) walking and climbing instead of taking the cable car.,(thankfully it
wasn’t as smoggy in the park thanks to all the plants and trees) the bugs in
the park were huge, from beautiful large butterflies, to huge mega sized scary
wasps and beetles. We continued, passing a log slide that looked very fun but
we had too many bags to do, and climbed the pagoda style building (so many
stairs) we spent ages chatting and it felt like we hadn’t seen each other than
in a week rather than several months. On down to the grass park like area we
found that you could rent Segway’s which looked great fun, and got some photos
with some local Chinese outside a gateway. We admired the small lakes and lily
pads everywhere, and a garden of bonsai, seeing one the size of a small tree,
clearly very old.
Once we were done and our legs and feet had had enough, we
got another bus and got off at her university, Wuhan University of Geosciences.
A very large campus, I was only in one half of it as the other half is across
the road. A 6 floor building she lives at the top and has to climb
the stairs as there is no elevator. The reception area was poor and the
maintenance had fallen, if it wasn’t for the people sitting at the desk you
could think it was abandoned. Her room is small, she shares it was a girl from
Suriname (South America) called Sarida. They have queen sized beds that I later
learnt felt like wooden planks. Their aircon isn’t working and they had to buy
a fridge. The shower works but it is a wet room bathroom. Mine seems the better
accommodation of the two.
We showered off our sweat before meeting the two other Suriname
students, Darys and Afsol; two friendly, funny guys. They don’t particularly
looked southern American, as Suriname has quite a mixed culture; they seemed to
all speak quite a few languages. Sarida has Indian heritage and Darys has Malaysian.
Afsol and Sarina are Muslim so we to dinner in a Chinese Muslim restaurant. I
had some delicious garlic spinach and tried some spiced green beans. Dared
Rosie and Afsol to eat the fish eye and brain, was near sick when Rosie did it
right beside me (even though I egged her on) I can’t abide things being done to
hurt eyeballs (I couldn’t watch the laser eye treatment scene in final
destination!) I felt quite at ease soon
enough and we briefly went to the bar “prison” to chill before heading back for
some sleep.
Sleep did not come
easy however. The herd bed and lack of aircon along with an oncoming cold
resulted in a restless miserable night, for me and Rosie; I also awoke to
mosquito bites, brilliant.
An early breakfast and a jog was not on the cards the next
morning, I felt awful! I briefly sat at the bank for some Wi-Fi, to message my
boyfriend and family as Rosie and Sarida still have not got theirs, though they
organised it earlier in the week.
Sarida, Afsol, Rosie and I got on a bus (with a long
journey) to the Hubei Provincial museum, free in. A huge place, it offers free
water, air con and western toilets with we used happily. It has about 4 floors
along with some side building exhibits. We looked round the first four, and
discovering surprisingly that the first was all about Napoléon Bonaparte, with
actual artefacts from that time. It was very busy and quite interesting as I
never studied the Napoleonic wars in school. We learnt about the wars, the
wives, the generals and his family. He tried to commit suicide at one point and
failed as the medication he used was out of date! I presume that the Chinese
have an exhibit about him as they admire his military and politic skills;
perhaps they see communist ideals in them?
On the floor above we saw jade artefacts, pottery and
ceramics and learnt all about the first men of China, with ancient skeletons
and tools etc.
It was all very interesting. Afterwards we went to McDonalds
as Sarida already hates Asian food and she’s only been there a week.
Chinese men seem to take to this “new style” of pulling
their skirts up, exposing their stomachs like belly tops, it’s quite gross and
they seem to do it everywhere =/
Tired, we all got on the bus and mainly dozed before heading
back to the university dorms and having a nap. Miraculously, the mechanic seems
to have finally come when we were out and the air con is finally working.
Glorious! Later, having failed to find the canteen which Rosie has a card for
and passing the interesting “fossil trees” area of her university. We found a
fast food sort of place where you get rice and choose what else you want. I got
a delicious vegetable and tofu scoop and some spicy vegetables mainly onions
(hopefully they sweat out my cold, my nose literally has not stopped running
the whole day and the soothers I got, a Chinese version are disgusting and
taste of aniseed, thankfully I was able to get some sweet orange ones later)
This was 6 RMB! And I got a free omelette soup, plain but
tasty! And a delicious lemon ice tea. Such a great meal! We then met Afsol who
wanted food (the toilet I used in his restaurant didn’t lock so I had to use
the toilet “crouching tiger hidden dragon style”) we then met Darys
and his friend, they’d been at a meeting and got some Moon cakes as tomorrow is
the Mid-autumn festival and there is a
full moon. They went and got street food, and while we sat a random Chinese man
sat at the next table (“my English name is David”) and asked all about Rosie
and I and explained what he did and how he needed English white girl teachers
for his school, paying 600RMB a week for 4 hours work, he said Rosie and one of
the guys could do it, getting their emails. It was creepy at the start “I have
car I can show you about, show you nice views on way to school” haha. But they
may actually consider it. Chinese stare way too much, and it’s got to the point
where I just stare back, doing so earlier on the bus an old Chinese man started
talking to Afsol as he could speak some Chinese, apparently I have yellow Chinese
skin. Class…
Also lots of them keep saying hi. Clearly the only white English
girls about #whitegirlproblems
Had a much better sleep thanks to the aircon! Up at half 9
we went around the local area while Rosie and Afsol got bikes and we picked up
the passport pictures we took last night (£1.50 for 8 such a bargain!) we met
Sarida and Darys at the metro station and headed to the Hubei bund area. Full of
some cool shops and a whole area on wedding dresses! We spotted an adorable pet
squirrel in one of the windows!! We went to the Wuhan beach area (Bund) the
waterfront. It was so smoggy you couldn’t see the other side of the Yangtze,
and the sky was grey/dark blue. We had literally just dipped our feet in to the
perfect temperature water for a downpour to start. Never seen people move so
fast in my life, it was hilarious! To top it off, a man was halfway across the
river swimming with his bags when this happened, must have been crazy for him.
It was refreshing for us though. The puddles were warm and you could even see
steam rising from it! Crazy!
Made our way to the station to begin going through after the
others had just left for the guy to realise that the ticket date said 14th!
FUCK! Need to be back for class starting in the morning, what the frig! I panicked,
couldn’t get through to anyone and kept saying I need to go to day, looking
lost and sad they understood when I asked if I could change the ticket.
Thankfully one took me to the upstairs ticket office and got it changed for me
for 6rmb. Train is now 4.30, however with no seat. Spending 6 hours on the
floor behind some allocated seats (I feel even more like a bum than ever but I
was NOT standing for 6 hours!!) thankfully, after sleeping in awkward positions
on the floor (there was a Chinese lady doing the exact same across from me)
sneezing, coughing etc., the woman in front took pity on me and told me to take
her seat when her and her on left, so for the last 1-2 hours I had an actual
seat. I even made it back on time around 10.30 to get the metro back to the
campus