the two main fashion influencers between the world wars and also huge rivals and utterly different in style. Channel with her simple clean cut designs and Schiaparelli with her often deconstructed ones drawing inspiration from the surrealist artists of the time, with no previous experience in fashion or its construction she created her looks with draping. She befriended and was taught eventually by Poiret, finding getting recognition and making her mark with a feature in vogue, she was helped with her creations by Arminian refugees who sewed her designs, who had created a double lock stick which helped her create her fanciful knit designs and also accredited pithing bringing the use of the zipper into fashion design. she brought quirkiness and humour to her designs easing tensions on the run up to the war, with high end clients such as Wallace Simpson, who was the wearer of the lobster dress.
Channel on the contrast based hers on a more sporty masculine look seeking comfort and practicality in style, with no need to corsetry, no restrictions or boundaries, using many sport favoured knits in her designs which was underhand of before expect for stockings.
The 30s was a hard era to dress, leaving the extravagant flapper styles of the 20s into the austerity of the war of the 40s. the constraints of the previous fashions (corsets etc) started with the flapper styles seeking independence, women were more active and sporty now and needed designs that reflected and incorporate this, however the hapless gowns of before were now replaced with ones that enhanced the figure, without confining it.
fashion illustrations were used in fashion catalogs to promote designs, fashions could be chosen and ordered from home, eg Sears. designs were also influenced heavily by movie stars. it was still common however for people to change clothes a couple times a day depending on activity, however during the depression this habit stopped and was only still done by the upperclass and film stars, though the women that could afford it began dressing in a swankier style during the 1940s, in the wake of Dior and his collection for day and evening with smooth wools and sleek satins, trimmed with frills furs and feminine details, fur was exciting popular.
the fashion fur style of the 30s was a High collar and lots of overall fluff
Swedish Greta Garbo became one of the first actresses to move from the silent screen int speaking roles in "the talkies" though unlike the majority of Hollywood, she shred away from the camera and instead sought a quiet life, she was followed for her beauty and style, and heavily scrutinised for her fashion.
another star of the time German American born actress Marlene Dietrich however was more trailblazing and liked the limelight unlike Garbo, a trendsetter. making bold choices and Grand entrances. she didn't let her sexuality get in the way of making a statement setting the fashion for trousers and more masculine comfortable looks for women. "I dress for myself"
designers who have taken inspiration from this era include: Carolina Herrera with soften shoulders, Vionnet, Jason Wu, Shoji, Donna Karen, Karl Lagerfield, Fendi
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